пошук
Ярослава Гончар
Автор
Nowadays, Chef André Chiang is one of the most successful chefs in the world. At the age of 15 he moved to France, where for twenty years he explored the art of French cuisine, exclusively in 3-star Michelin restaurants. Today, André runs many successful projects around the world, shares knowledge with young chefs, and attends specialized congresses. PostEat caught up with André Chiang during Chef Congress Fontegro Ukraine 2018 and we are happy to share the highlights of our interview with him below.
Цей матеріал вперше опубліковано на сайті posteat.ua та є його інтелектуальною власністю.
First steps as a cook
My mother had a Chinese restaurant in Japan. There, at the age of 13, I have first discovered the art of cooking. I am the youngest member of our family, and the only one who has carried on my mother’s business. For the thirteen-year-old me, there were only three cuisines in the world: the Chinese, the Japanese, and the French. My mom cooked traditional Chinese dishes. Meanwhile, while living in Japan, I have adopted Japanese cuisine as my second native. About the French gastronomy, though, I literally knew nothing. I wanted to learn something that was not widespread in Asia; so, I have decided to move to France.
About his life in France
Since I wanted to know absolutely everything about the French cuisine, I thought it necessary to learn only from the very best. I have started my career in the South of France, have then moved to Lyon, and then to Paris! The fun fact is, that I have worked exclusively in 3-star Michelin restaurants. My first encounter with the extraordinary French cuisine was at Le Jardin des Sens, the newest 3-star restaurant. In France, I have acquired invaluable knowledge, have worked in big and small places, alongside chefs with fantastic unique culinary styles and techniques. On my thirtieth birthday, I have decided to return to Asia.
Цей матеріал вперше опубліковано на сайті posteat.ua та є його інтелектуальною власністю.
About his individual style as a chef
Every chef has his or her own unique style and approach to cooking. Following a long relationship with the rather conservative French cuisine, and overwhelmed by an incessant flow of information, I needed a break. I needed some time to discover who I am, and to build my own philosophy. I no longer wanted to be like the others…so, I moved to Africa for two years. It was during this time that I have started to discover André — his personality, his culture, and his style. And that is how I have developed my Octo-philosophy.
About OCTAPHYLOSOPHY
OCTAPHYLOSOPHY is the foundation of my kitchen. It is the system of culinary principles based on eight primary characteristics:
Purity – is my belief that inimitable savour can be found in the simplicity of pure, unadulterated ingredients;
Salt – as an ancient seasoning, used since time immemorial, it continues to rouse unlimited sensations of taste;
Artisan – with every dish I want to celebrate the craftsmanship of highly passionate chef artists;
South – in whatever I prepare, I also want to capture the flavours of Southern France’s “joie de vivre” philosophy;
Texture – by combining layers of flavours and textual contrasts in a single dish, I want to offer a deliciously complex sensory experience;
Unique –I believe that with culinary experimenting we can experience a common product in a completely different — that is, unique — way;
Memory – by re-inventing old recipes I want to keep the memory and traditions alive;
Terroir –and, above all, with whatever I prepare I want to show appreciation to the gifts that Mother Nature has bestowed upon us.
Цей матеріал вперше опубліковано на сайті posteat.ua та є його інтелектуальною власністю.
About his very first creation
I have created my first dish at the age of twenty. At that time, I have been working in a restaurant in the South of France, and was the only Chinese among thirty European chefs. One day, our head chef challenged us to develop our own dishes, the best of which would be incorporated in the restaurant’s new menu.
Since I wanted to create something traditionally French, the choice was obvious: foie gras and truffles. But, I also wanted to propose something light, because many people dislike foie gras for its high fat content. I have thus decided to change the texture of the dish: whisking the classic foie gras into a fluffy parfait and completing it with truffle coulis. The chef was delighted! As for me, this dish was a paradigm changer: I have finally realized, that I am able to create. The name for the dish is very symbolic — pure André dish — one that represents perfectly myself as a chef.
Coming back to Asia
Having spent twenty years outside of Asia, I have realized that I knew absolutely nothing about the gastronomic culture, tastes, and local produce. The idea of opening my own restaurant, though, was my next big objective and challenge. I have decided to start managing one of the smallest restaurants in a Singapore hotel, which was easy to do, and gave me time to discover the restaurant industry of the region, study, and understand the gastronomic preferences of the locals. Two years later, I have opened my own restaurant — André.
Цей матеріал вперше опубліковано на сайті posteat.ua та є його інтелектуальною власністю.
About André
As far as I am concerned, there was and remains a great lack of chef-led restaurants in Asia. That is, restaurants in which one person – the head chef — keeps everything together; where guests come in, as if into his or her own home.
I have spent each day in André’s kitchen, while my wife oversaw the dining hall. There was no menu. Day after day, I have tried to surprise people with new dishes. If I had to leave, the restaurant was closed. André was a unique project with no analogues in the world. It was difficult to manage, but we lived like that for ten years.
After ten years, I have decided to close the restaurant, which at that time has just received the second Michelin star, and has entered the rating of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
This too, is a part of my philosophy. Every 10 years I move on; I leave my comfort zone and start from scratch. I am convinced that a person needs to improve — to grow — continuously. I like to repeat that it took me ten years to build one of the best restaurants in the world. I can assure you, though, that in ten years time, I will surpass myself.
Цей матеріал вперше опубліковано на сайті posteat.ua та є його інтелектуальною власністю.
About current projects
If you look through the history of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, you realize that I am the only Chinese chef ever included in the list. “Why?”, you may ask. There is a number of laudable projects and talented chefs in Asia but I am the only awarded one…
With this in mind, I feel responsible for bringing up a new, young generation of cooks. I want to share with the aspiring talents my experience — give them a chance to develop and expose themselves.
The most common barrier to knowledge today is the linguistic one. Young chefs in Asia and Eastern Europe have promising potentials; unfortunately, though, they do not have enough opportunities to learn new languages. Recently, a Chinese chef came to me and thanked me for publishing my book in three languages: French, English, and – the language he mastered — Chinese.
The main reason why I have decided to close André is shortage of time. The basic concept of André required my continuous presence; and this, given today’s realities, became impossible. André group runs seven other restaurants around the world, and I want to pay attention to each and every one of them. I want to spend more time with my students, share my experience with chefs from different countries, attend conferences like Fontegro Ukraine 2018, and travel. Oh, and I also want to spend at least some time with my family (laughs).
Цей матеріал вперше опубліковано на сайті posteat.ua та є його інтелектуальною власністю.
About the Fontegro’s Ukraine 2018 main theme
For me, the quality of the product comes out with the quality of the chef. Even the best food can lose its value in the hands of a mediocre chef.
Every restaurant of André group, scattered around different parts of the world, has its own specificity and concept. Their menus are based on local produce and products. We aspire to integrate our restaurants in the community where they are located, to cooperate with the local producers, to develop together with the inhabitants, and to gradually add something of ours to the local environment.
To become the best, you must be the first: you must initiate change, and continue to create! You must not, however, forget traditions and heritage. Each generation has its own music, its own fashion, and of course its own food. Today, a chef is the one who creates a cuisine that could become a respectable symbol of modernity. So that in 30 years’ time, people could say, «Oh, in 2018 they had awesome food!’’
About trends
In my opinion, the most obvious and powerful trend today is the personalization of gastronomy. You can hear often that the dish is “in Noma’s style” — not Danish. We no longer categorize cuisines on the basis of national traits — today, a chef’s personality comes to the forefront!
by Yaroslava Honchar, editor: Ziva Kokolj
Photo by lliya Volkov
Подписывайтесь на наши страницы в социальных сетях:
 |
 |
 |
 |
Цей матеріал вперше опубліковано на сайті posteat.ua та є його інтелектуальною власністю.
Коментарi